At Urusha station, I posed with the engine that pulled our 23 cars roughly 2,000 miles eastward from Irkutsk, near Lake Baikal, to Khabarovsk, along Russia’s borders with Mongolia and China.  One hundred years ago, “Red” and “White” forces battled for thousands of miles along the Trans-Siberian in the Russian Civil War, which followed the Bolshevik seizure of power and was immortalized in Boris Pasternak’s novel, Doctor Zhivago.  The Czecho-Slovak Legion was the strongest armed unit of many Russian and foreign forces deployed across Siberia in a confusing welter.  One of my strongest memories is of station stops in the dead of night, when Stalin-era loudspeakers barked and crackled boarding instructions, which echoed eerily through the rail yards, prompting baggage-laden Russians to run for their trains, footsteps crunching wildly on the gravel rail beds. 

Kevin J. McNamaraComment